Common Misunderstandings about Afro Hair
Last Edited: 12/29/2025
Disclaimer: This content is for educational purposes only and reflects current hair-science and dermatology research. It isn’t a substitute for medical advice. If you have ongoing scalp issues or concerns, a dermatologist can help determine what’s best for you.
Table of Contents
Hair products are NOT developed to absorb into the hair.
Why this matters: Hair products are meant to coat and protect the hair, so expecting them to “sink in” leads to frustration instead of helping you judge whether a product is actually doing its job.
Hair products, especially conditioners, are designed to work primarily on the surface of the hair rather than being absorbed into it like skincare products. Instead, they coat and lubricate the hair’s surface, helping it feel smooth, easier to manage, and less prone to tangling.
Although these products are often marketed as “moisturizing,” that term usually refers to how the hair feels after use, not a lasting increase in the hair’s internal water content.
Cuticles don’t open and close like blinds
Why this matters: Believing cuticles open and close can lead you to chase penetration instead of focusing on protecting the hair’s surface, where most damage actually happens.
The hair cuticle consists of millions of overlapping scales that point downward. Its primary function is to protect the inner cortex and medulla (if present) from damage.
While the structure of the cuticle can change and become more permeable, it does not actively open and close as many consumers believe. People often think cuticles open to allow products to penetrate and close to retain them, but this is inaccurate. When the cuticle appears lifted, it is because it has become detached from the natural binding material that holds the cuticle layers together.
Water SHOULD bead on the hair
Why this matters: Beading means your hair is well-conditioned on the surface—not that it’s resisting moisture or needs fixing.
Healthy hair features a lipid-membrane structure, known as the F-layer, on the outer surface of the cuticle. This hydrophobic layer causes water to bead up on the hair’s surface. It acts as a protective barrier, helping maintain the hair’s strength and integrity rather than signaling a problem that needs fixing.
Hydrated hair is a misnomer
Why this matters: Hair doesn’t stay hydrated the way skin does, so chasing hydration can distract from what actually improves softness and manageability.
The terms “hydrated” and “moisturized” hair are commonly used, but they don’t accurately describe how hair actually interacts with water.
As previously mentioned, undamaged hair initially resists water, which is why water often beads on the surface. Hair’s water content is not constant; it changes dynamically based on the relative humidity of the surrounding environment. Hair absorbs or releases water until it reaches equilibrium with the air around it.
Conventional hair products don’t create lasting changes in hair’s natural water content. These terms are widely used in marketing because they’re familiar and relatable. However, daily cosmetic treatments don’t override the way hair naturally responds to moisture, even though they can affect how hair feels and behaves.
You don’t need “moisturized” hair. You want “conditioned” hair. Also, your hair isn’t dry.
Why this matters: When you understand that hair responds to conditioning—not stored moisture—it becomes easier to care for it without constantly adding products.
The beauty industry commonly uses the terms “moisturizing” and “hydrating,” even though they don’t precisely describe how hair holds or interacts with water. Consumer sentiment drives the industry, leading to potential misunderstandings of these terms.
When people describe hair as “moisturized,” they’re usually responding to how it feels—soft, flexible, and manageable. That sensation comes from lubrication, alignment of hair fibers, and reduced friction, not from water being stored inside the hair.
Conditioners play a key role by coating the hair’s surface with ingredients (i.e., cationic surfactants, emollients) that smooth, lubricate, and protect it. This improves how the hair behaves and feels without changing its natural water content.
What’s often called “dryness” is usually a surface issue related to cuticle damage. Hair scientist Trefor Evans, Ph.D., has noted that this perception is most often tied to cuticle condition rather than moisture loss. While this damage can’t be reversed, conditioners and styling products can temporarily improve roughness, tangling, and dullness. It’s also important to remember that hair texture and color affect shine.
It’s also important to remember that hair texture and color affect shine. Afro-textured hair doesn’t reflect light the same way straight hair does—even when it’s healthy.
Hair does not need to be repeatedly moisturized to prevent breakage while in a low-tension style.
Why this matters: Understanding what actually causes breakage helps you avoid unnecessary product layering and focus on the habits that truly protect your hair.
Hair does not break spontaneously while it’s in twists, braids, or another low-tension style. Breakage happens in response to mechanical stress, like detangling, combing, pulling, or rough handling. When hair is styled gently and left alone, there’s very little happening to it that would cause it to suddenly snap.
The belief that hair must be constantly “re-moisturized” while in a style comes from the idea that hair is losing moisture over time and becoming fragile. In reality, what usually changes is the surface feel of the hair.
As hair rubs against clothing, pillows, or hands, some of the lubrication from conditioners and styling products can wear away. The hair may feel rougher or less soft, but that doesn’t mean it’s becoming weaker or more prone to breakage.
Layering products repeatedly without washing can also lead to buildup, which often makes hair feel dull, sticky, or harder to manage over time.
If you’re wearing twists for a week and leaving them alone, reapplying product isn’t protecting the hair—it’s refreshing how it looks or feels. That’s fine if appearance or comfort is your goal, but it isn’t required for hair health.
Scalp itching is not usually caused by dryness.
Why this matters: Treating scalp itch as dryness—especially by adding oils—often makes flaking and irritation worse instead of better.
Seborrheic dermatitis often shows up as an itchy, flaky scalp and may also cause redness.
Dandruff is usually considered a milder version of this condition that’s limited to the scalp.
Doctors don’t know the exact cause, but research suggests it’s linked to a type of yeast called Malassezia, along with how oily your scalp is and how your skin reacts to it. Malassezia naturally lives on our skin and tends to thrive in oilier areas, including the scalp.
Medicated shampoos and washing the scalp regularly with the right products can help keep symptoms under control. While this condition can’t be “cured,” it can usually be managed.
If a dermatologist has diagnosed you with seborrheic dermatitis, it’s important to follow their treatment plan. For some people, applying heavy oils or products that trap oil on the scalp can make symptoms worse. Always follow your dermatologist’s guidance for what’s best for your scalp.
References
A Deep Dive into Curly Hair with Dr Crystal Porter (J. Novakovich, Interviewer). (2023, October 4). https://www.theecowell.com/podcast/crystal
Borda, L. J., & Wikramanayake, T. C. (2015). Seborrheic Dermatitis and Dandruff: A Comprehensive Review. Journal of clinical and investigative dermatology, 3(2), 10.13188/2373-1044.1000019. https://doi.org/10.13188/2373-1044.1000019
Evans, T., & Wickett, R. R. (Eds.). (2012). Practical Modern Hair Science [PDF]. Allured Business Media. https://library.triprinceton.org/1t0nsnb/1
Novakovich, J [Hardcore #BeautyScience Gang - The Eco Well Notes]. (2020, August 5). Hair Care Beauty Science Panel 8/5/2020 [Video]. YouTube. https://youtube.com/live/sZI81GVLYRA
Novakovich, J [Hardcore #BeautyScience Gang - The Eco Well Notes]. (2023, September 24). Hair Care Misconceptions with Michelle Wong PhD at the Hair Science E-Summit [Video]. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdL31ouZM6w
Novakovich, J. [Hardcore #BeautyScience Gang - The Eco Well Notes]. (2023, September 24). Hair Structure 101, Trefor Evans Ph.D. from TRI Princeton at the Hair Science E-Summit [Video]. YouTube. https://youtube.com/watch?v=nEJygXgtG-0
Schmidt, C. (2020, December 12). What Is A Hair Cuticle? Formulate. https://www.formulate.co/journal/p/hair-cuticle/her
Seborrheic dermatitis. (2025, November 6). Cleveland Clinic. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/14403-seborrheic-dermatitis